TODAY ALMOST EVERY COSMETIC BRAND OFFERS ITS UNIQUE MEANS THAT HELPS TO SAVE YOUTH. BUT WHICH OF THESE REALLY WORKS, AND WHAT IS THE MARKETING "EMPTY"? WITH THIS ARTICLE, WE OPEN A CYCLE OF ARTICLES ON ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN COSMETIC CREAMS, WHICH GIVE A VISIBLE EFFECT.
EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR
TODAY EGF (EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR) - ONE OF THE MOST REQUIRED INGREDIENTS IN ANTI-AGE COSMETICS. SAY THAT THE EFFICIENCY OF JAPANESE AND KOREAN COSMETICS IS BASED ON THOSE, AND THE PROSPECTS FOR SLIMES OF THE SNAILS IS ADDED THERE IS ONLY FOR REMOVAL OF THE EYES - BEFORE YOU WORK. ABOUT HOW THESE GROWTH FACTORS ARE WORKING AND IN THAT UNIQUENESS, WE TALKED WITH THE DOCTOR OF BIOLOGICAL SCIENCES AND THE CO-FOUNDER OF THE ICELANDIAN BEAUTY ORGANIZATION BJORNOR ORVORA. THE CONCERN IS RELEASING THE MOST POPULAR COSMETIC COSMETICS WITH EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS FOR SCANDINAVIA TODAY, WHICH, BY THE way, MAY BE ACQUIRED IN DUBAI.
Dr. Orvar, what is EGF, and how does it affect the skin?
Bjorn Orvar: EGF is a protein found in skin cells. There are many growth factors in our body, and EGF is one of them. It signals skin cells and helps them regenerate, and you look younger. In addition to EGF, many other growth factors are responsible for skin health, but it is considered to be the main one.
Who invented the EGF?
Bjorn Orvar: The EGF was discovered by doctors Stanley Cohen and Rita Levy-Montalcini, for which they received the 1986 Nobel Prize in Medicine. Since then, many scientists from around the world have studied the role and significance of EGF.
What is the difference between plant and animal EGF? Are there any contraindications to its use?
Bjorn Orvar: In fact, there is almost no difference. Extracted from barley, EGF, which is used in Bioeffect, is an exact copy of the protein found in the cells of our skin. Numerous studies have shown that it has a similar biological effect.
What happens to the skin when we stop using the drug?
Bjorn Orvar: As our skin ages, it produces less EGF. This is due to skin aging - with age, it loses its ability to regenerate. Thanks to the EGF content, Bioeffect can compensate to some extent for this loss. But if you stop using it, then the skin will gradually return to its original condition.
Does EGF penetrate the deeper layers of the skin or act in the epidermis?
Bjorn Orvar: EGF protein molecules are large, so it’s not easy for them to enter anywhere. The drug is designed to reach only live keratinocytes, which are closest to the surface of the skin - just below the stratum corneum. Thus, if your skin is healthy and intact, then the drug will not overcome the epidermis and will not fall into the deeper layers of the skin.
Does Bioeffect begin to act immediately, or do you have to wait for the results?
Bjorn Orvar: You will notice the first signs of improvement after a few days, but the drug will fully work only after 4-6 weeks. Skin cells need some time to regenerate and restart biological processes such as collagen production.
Why did you choose barley as a raw material for EGF?
Bjorn Orvar: Because barley is an excellent source and reliable storage of important proteins, such as growth factors. In addition, barley is a biologically and ecologically isolated species, not subject to cross-pollination, - thus, different plants can grow close to each other, without giving offspring.
What is the main difference between Bioeffect and other EGF products?
Bjorn Orvar: There are three main differences. Firstly, Bioeffect is the only cosmetic product that uses herbal EGF. The rest use EGF obtained from E. coli animals or humans. Thus, Bioeffect is much cleaner and safer.
Secondly, before launching the market, the effectiveness of Bioeffect products was tested in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Thirdly, we tried to use as few ingredients as possible in Bioeffect: firstly, to keep EGF as stable as possible, and secondly, because we believe that the skin does not need all of these many chemicals.
At what age do you recommend using Bioeffect?
Bjorn Orvar: According to studies, the skin aging process begins as early as 20 years old. Growth factors are a very important element in the biology of our skin, so we recommend using Bioeffect, especially Bioeffect Day Serum, already from this age.
Do all Bioeffect products contain EGF?
Bjorn Orvar: No, only our serums and creams for daily use. Moreover, the content of EGF in the former is slightly lower than in the latter.
What technologies do you use to grow barley in Iceland?
Bjorn Orvar: We grow barley in hydroponic systems in ultra-modern greenhouses, using only sustainable geothermal energy as a source of heat and electricity. As a fertilizer, we use a special volcanic pumice (ash). Growth factors are found only in barley grains. Our technology allows us to get the most pure grains, and therefore the most pure EGF.
Can men also use Bioeffect serum?
Bjorn Orvar: Of course. EGF is found in the skin of any person, regardless of gender. Among Bioeffect's loyal customers have quite a few men.
HYALURONIC ACID
IN COSMETICS, HYALURONIC ACID AND ITS SODIUM SALT, SODIUM HYALURONATE ARE APPLIED MAINLY AS A HUMIDIZING COMPONENT, IT'S LIKELY DISCONTINUALLY RELATED. TO BETTER KNOW ABOUT HOW IT WORKS, WE TALKED WITH MARIA MADADHA - REGIONAL MANAGER OF FILORGA - A FRENCH BRAND, OPENING THE WORLD HYALURONOUS YEAR OLD. THEY BECAME THE FIRST TO MAKE INJECTIONS FOR REJUVENATION THAT BECAME KNOWN AFTER MESOTHERAPY.
Worldwide, Filorga is known as a manufacturer of products for mesotherapy, biorevitalization, contouring, peeling and home care. Hyaluronic acid injections are the fastest and most modern way to fight wrinkles and restore facial volume. When introduced into the skin along the wrinkles, hyaluronic acid fills it from the inside.
On the basis of its own scientific developments, the Filorga laboratory created biological preparations that can comprehensively act on the signs of skin aging: a line for anti-aging mesotherapy (NCTF® cocktails widely known throughout the world), dermal fillers (X-HA®), glycolic peels (Glykopeel®), cryotherapy apparatus (Cryolift®) and a line of cosmetics for home care (appeared only in 2007).
Maria, Filorga, being a pioneer in the use of hyaluronic acid injections, is now used by cosmetologists all over the world - it is known that more than 10 million procedures are performed on Filorga fillers per year. Tell us how fillers work and what is their main advantage?
Mary Madadha: In 1978, Dr. Michel Thorjman, future founder of Filorga, a renowned specialist in the field of aesthetic medicine and cell biology, brought together a group of specialists to implement a research program in the field of skin aging. The result of their work was the development of an NCTF® cocktail based on hyaluronic acid and 54 components for skin tone and elasticity. It was a drug for anti-aging injections - biorevitalization and mesotherapy. NCTF (New Cellular Treatment Factor) is our signature bestseller, our distinctive know-how. This cocktail contains 53 ingredients: 23 amino acids, 12 vitamins, 6 coenzymes, 6 minerals, 5 nucleic acids, 1 antioxidant and, of course, hyaluronic acid. What is all this for? The fact is that collagen and elastin are responsible for the elasticity of the skin of the face. These cells are proteins, and amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. Therefore, 23 amino acids and other minerals and coenzymes in our cocktail are aimed precisely at restoring collagen and elastin cells from the inside. Indeed, for example, by the age of 50, only 5% of collagen remains in our skin! Hyaluronic acid complements this process, which traps water in the cells and creates volume.
How does hyaluronic acid work inside the skin?
Mary Madadha: Hyaluronic acid acts as a sponge or sponge that absorbs and holds water. This is one of the main macromolecules that make up our skin, saliva, articular cartilage, as well as the eyes. It binds water molecules, maintaining adequate tissue saturation with moisture, and gives the supporting frame of the dermis an elastic texture. Due to the powerful moisturizing effect of hyaluronic acid, the skin is smoothed and smoothed out, small wrinkles disappear and deep wrinkles decrease.
Unfortunately, under the influence of many negative factors (sun rays, smoking, a polluted environment, stresses, hormonal disorders and a genetic predisposition), the stores of hyaluronic acid decrease over time, its synthesis in the dermis cells stops and its decay rate increases.
The skin becomes thinner, acquires a tendency to dryness and loses elasticity. Facial features are sharpened, his oval loses clarity, and the number of wrinkles increases. Therefore, fillers with hyaluronic acid come to the rescue. The cleaner the hyaluronic acid, the longer it will last, for example, our fillers can last up to 18 months. But in addition to fillers, we have a line of cosmetics for home care, which also includes our NCTF cocktail. All our products contain the NCTF complex. This is our cosmetology "Bible."
It is known that creams mainly work on the surface layer of the skin - in the epidermis. Active ingredients are difficult to penetrate into the dermis. How do you solve this problem?
Mary Madadha: Yes, this is so, and all manufacturers of cosmetics are faced with this - with the difficulty of delivering the active components to the dermis. Therefore, Michel Thorjman once proposed a new way to overcome the epidermal barrier using microscopic chronospheres - vector molecules that drag other components of creams along with them into the dermis. Today, this molecule is part of all our home care creams and delivers the right ingredients to the deeper layers. And only with the use of this transporter molecule we were able to launch our line of medical cosmetics for home care. Therefore, for those who do not want to make injections, our creams, serums and masks are suitable.
Can i get Filorga mesococtails in Dubai?
Mary Madadha: Not yet, but we plan to start delivering our fillers to Dubai clinics in the near future, since we opened our official representative office only a year ago. So far, the UAE has presented our cosmetic line, which is sold in many large pharmacies of the city.
NEED TO KNOW
If you are looking for a tool for high-quality skin hydration - hyaluronic acid is definitely your product. It works like a "supersponge", attracting a huge amount of water and holding its molecules in the cells of the network, as in a "hyaluronic prison."
Hyaluronic acid is high and low molecular weight. High molecular weight is obtained from animal sources - birds and the human placenta. Its molecules are huge, thanks to which it can hold more water, but cannot penetrate into the skin on its own and is used in injection fillers. Low molecular weight penetrates perfectly into the skin and is used in creams, masks and serums. It includes hydrolyzed, mini, and nano-hyaluronic acid, as well as sodium hyaluronate.
However, the "hyaluron" contained in cosmetics is not able to stimulate the synthesis or interact with the skin's own hyaluronic acid. Therefore, neither fillers nor cosmetics with hyaluronic acid can prevent premature aging. Retinol, acids, copper peptides will help stimulate its synthesis.
VITAMIN A (RETINOL)
RETINOL IS ONE OF THE BEST REJUVENATING AND RESTORING COMPONENTS OF COSMETICS, THE EFFECT OF WHICH IS PROVEN BY DECADES OF APPLICATION AND IS ALREADY UNKNOWN. The role of Vitamin A in maintaining youth was still open at the beginning of the past century. CLINICAL STUDIES CONFIRM THAT EXPERIENCES APPLIED VITAMIN A ARE THE ONLY MEANS FOR PREVENTING WRINKLES.
Pure stabilized retinol renews the skin, improves complexion, makes the skin fresher, evens out tone, removes facial wrinkles. The action goes in two directions: exfoliation, cell division and growth, i.e., the stratum corneum of the skin thinns and the epidermis thickens. At the same time, it cleanses the skin from acne and age spots, smoothes, renews and restores.
Retinol stimulates the growth and renewal of skin cells. This process slows down with age, leading to the fact that deposits of dead, weak, sun-damaged cells remain on its surface. As a result, the skin looks tired and painful, the pores become enlarged and the effects of ultraviolet damage to the skin appear: age spots.
However, vitamin A makes the skin too sensitive to UV rays (despite the fact that it fights photoaging), therefore, it is recommended to use any creams with retinol only in non-sunny seasons and only at night. Also, creams with retinol can not be used constantly, since this is a fairly aggressive drug (course maximum 3 weeks).
The term "vitamin A" itself does not mean any one substance or molecule. There are many forms of vitamin A, which are generally called retinoids. In cosmetology, the following forms of vitamin A (retinoids) are most often used:
Of all these forms, only pure retinoic acid is the most effective (but also aggressive) form of vitamin A, because only to it there are special RAR receptors on the membranes of skin cells. All other listed forms of vitamin A are only precursors of retinoic acid, which they will turn into after a cycle of chemical reactions that occur after application to the skin.
All these forms can be used to reduce the depth of wrinkles, as well as to improve the appearance of the skin, but their effectiveness will be different. Manufacturers of anti-aging cosmetics use weaker forms of vitamin A for creams and serums for wrinkles (in decreasing order of strength) - these are retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinol esters.
Some of the best Vitamin A products are Ystheal (before 40 years old) and Eluage (after 40 years) from Avene. They are often recommended by cosmetologists as an effective anti-aging care at home. Well proven are also funds with retinol from La Roche-Posay - Redermic R.
However, all vitamin A supplements have side effects and can cause flaking and redness. Dermatologists advise starting treatment with weaker forms of vitamin A (for example, with retinol). After several months of using them, when the skin gets used to it, it will be possible to switch to stronger retinoids.
Text: Anna Pavlova
