In more detail about various peeling procedures and what indications and contraindications there are for their use, cosmetologist Aliya Nurpeisova, a practitioner in the new GO FUSCHIA Hair & Nail Studio beauty salon, told our correspondent.
Dr. Alia, please tell me what is the mechanism of chemical peeling on the skin of the face and is it harmful?
If we impartially analyze all modern cosmetology techniques aimed at preventing skin aging and correcting changes that have already occurred, then there are two methods that effectively influence aging processes at a pathogenetic level. These are various types of peeling and mesotherapy.
Professional chemical facial peeling (chemosurgery) is a controlled chemical damage to certain layers of the epidermis and / or dermis by special types of acids. As a result, in addition to the inflammatory reaction developing in the epidermis and dermis, protective and restorative mechanisms are activated. Acids provide even and controlled exfoliation of several layers of old dead cells, which contributes to the rejuvenation of the skin surface. In addition, the production of young cells, collagen and elastin fibers is stimulated, which ensures an increase in its tone and elasticity.
The individual reaction to chemical peeling varies greatly and depends on the type of skin, type of acid, exposure time. The skin after peeling is the skin of a baby. The main task is to constantly moisturize it. The duration of the result depends on the care and compliance with certain recommendations. If you are fond of sunburn and smoke a lot, regression of treatment results will come very quickly. In such a hot and sunny country like the UAE, it is simply necessary to apply sunscreen when going outside. The home use of creams with a low concentration of glycolic acid significantly prolongs the results of peeling.
What does the peeling procedure look like?
Beauticians still apply the acid solution to the skin with a brush or tampon, as our colleagues did many years ago. On the other hand, the execution of the procedure is akin to art - you need to consider many subtleties and nuances. Therefore, experts are constantly working on how to make peeling more gentle and more effective.
To date, the following peels have received the most widespread use in cosmetology: deep peeling with an erbium laser, mid peels with trichloacetic acid, and surface peels with alpha hydroxy acids. The choice of peeling first of all depends on what tasks we have to solve for this particular patient and for how long rehabilitation he agrees. Apparently, Hippocrates ’instruction“ do no harm ”to this type of procedure is most relevant.
What peelings do you use in the treatment of skin pigmentation, which is very common in hot countries?
Depending on the cause, localization and phototype of the skin, glycolic acid peels or TCA peels can be used to treat hyperpigmentation. Glycol peeling is intended for patients who want a faster recovery after the procedure and who are ready for the fact that in order to achieve the final result, peeling will have to be done several times. For this type of peeling, acid is used in various concentrations - 20%, 50%, 70%. It also includes other depigmenting ingredients: kojic acid and bearberry extract, as well as ascorbic acid, which also has a brightening effect. The popularity of this method is explained by its versatility and non-toxicity, and most importantly, it does not require a client to change his lifestyle, since glycolic peels, regardless of concentration, are always superficial.
Trichloroacetic acid peeling (TCA peeling) gives excellent controlled results. During the procedure, the cosmetologist can always determine the depth of exposure to acid. Such a peeling, by the way, can also be superficial and deep. The effect of the procedure with trichloacetic acid impresses patients and can last a long time.
Do you consider the causes of pigmentation when prescribing a particular procedure?
Cosmetology is the same medical specialty as others, and not taking into account the causes of skin pigmentation would be, at least, unprofessional. It makes no sense to solve the problem of hyperpigmentation if the cause of its occurrence is not established and possibly eliminated. The treatment of pigmentation is one of the most difficult tasks in modern cosmetology. For example, hyperpigmentation may be associated with impaired function of the endocrine glands, pregnancy, liver and biliary tract disease, impaired vitamin balance in the body (especially vitamin C) or metabolism, prolonged intoxication in various chronic infections.
Knowing all the factors and causes of pigmentation allows you to choose the right type of peeling for the patient, as this ensures the achievement of the desired results and reduces the risk of complications. In addition to the use of chemical peels, vitamin preparations, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, ozonoterpia are used.
Are peelings able to solve cosmetic problems, or is it nevertheless desirable to combine with other methods?
Peeling with a competent approach to their use can solve many skin problems, such as: acne and their consequences, aging, sluggish skin, wrinkles and others. The combination of various skin renewal procedures with chemical peeling makes these procedures safer, more accurate and more suitable for each individual patient. For example, a combination of chemical peels and mesotherapy plus competent home care has proven itself. Photorejuvenation and laser peels are effective methods to combat pigmentation, but they should be applied no earlier than two weeks after the previous peeling. A comprehensive treatment course includes the use of special cosmetics that reduce the synthesis of melanin in the skin, as well as the use of sunscreens and lotions.
What to do in case of the formation of post-peeling pigmentation, and what are its forecasts?
Post-peeling pigmentation is a serious complication after the peeling procedure. Most often, it is observed in patients who have already noted it after other skin lesions. It is especially likely in patients taking oral contraceptives or other hormonal drugs. Post-peeling pigmentation is not a reason to permanently abandon peelings, and sometimes a direct indication for their use. Increased attention to pre-peeling preparation and post-peeling care is one of the distinguishing features of modern cosmetology. The effect of peeling largely depends on these stages, and good preparation minimizes the side effects of peeling.
Where is the best peeling procedure?
Conducting any chemical peeling, in essence, leads to a chemical burn of the skin. Only the right approach to the procedure, which must be done only in the clinic or in the salon with a medical license, allows minimizing the risk of complications to a minimum. Try not to chase the low price, be sure to follow all the home recommendations of a cosmetologist, do not save on professional home care products. Well, and, of course, it is better to trust the proven masters and high-quality products of famous brands. Remember that chemical peeling is a serious medical manipulation, and non-professional experiments can cost you not only beauty, but also health.
Be beautiful!
