Text: Dariga Masenova ON THE BEACHES OF THE PERSIAN GULF IS NOT SO ALSO DIFFICULT AND DIFFICULT TO DEPTH IN THE FLOW OF FRESH BRANDS AND THE CIRCULATION OF SEASONAL SALES. HOW MUCH Avant-garde STYLE IS DEMANDED IN SUCH ENVIRONMENT, AND WHAT ARE THE RISK OF APPEARANCE TO MARGINALS AND VICTIMS OF FASHION?
On the verge of fashion
Starting with Coco Chanel, who popularized the trouser suit, and ending with Christian Dior, who created the fashionable new look, the fashion developed in many respects thanks to the rebel visionaries - those who were brave enough to challenge society based only on their own intuition. Some designers manage to find a compromise between their unbridled ideas and what is in demand on the market. They lose their rebellious spirit, becoming part of a popular culture, but they accumulate special loyal groups of customers who value high skill. However, there are masters whose surrealistic collections absolutely do not fit into the framework of an ordinary mass market. And while in fashion there is a very clear separation between ready-to-wear and couture, many designers do not fall into any category, choosing a more extraordinary niche: avant-garde. This trend originates in the work of avant-garde artists. Unusual shapes, innovative techniques, unexpected and exaggeratedly large accessories - this is the vanguard.
Therefore, creating enchanting shows, designers stylize collections with even greater shock. The spirit of avant-garde is also read in non-standard silhouettes: mainly volumetric geometric shapes and asymmetries. One thing is certain: in such clothes it is difficult to get lost in the crowd.
Unfortunately, today a brand like Pierre Cardin has nothing to do with the avant-garde. Although it was Carden who knew how to combine the incongruous with genius, together with his colleague Andre Kurrezh and Marie Quant, they were the founders of the avant-garde style in the 60s. Carden “blew up” the fashion arena, creating the 1964 Cosmos legendary space collection dedicated to the launch of the first artificial Earth satellite. Bright texture, contrast with black, cold metal color graphics ... Kurrezh, by the way, also loved a futuristic theme, so in the same year he released Space Age collection with Carden.
Vanguard today
England is the country of the most eccentric designers. "Bad Girl", a real punk of the entire fashion industry, Vivienne Westwood passed through a whole era of avant-garde - from the defiant punk culture to the ardent political slogans on T-shirts and t-shirts. Recent appeals for environmental protection and the fight against global warming show her experimental approach to fashion and a desire to expand the consciousness of the masses. In the Fall-Winter 2015 collection, the designer used her favorite “cage” in an unexpected combination with long tassels on the supposed kilt, lush drapes on asymmetrical dresses and vibrant graphics - Westwood remains true to herself, and it seems that her style can no longer be separated from her musical preferences.
Who does not know the contradictory John Galliano? Favorite of Anna Wintour, the best friend of Kate Moss, he scandalously resigned as Creative Director of Christian Dior due to public anti-Semitic speeches. And a year later he became the head of another avant-garde Fashion House - Maison Margiela. Nevertheless, in the very first collection, the fashion designer was able to combine the ascetic minimalism of the Belgian Martin Margela and his own vision.
Another London-based designer, Alexander McQueen, still has a very powerful army of fans. He often shocked the audience with provocative collections. Today, his work is continued by designer Sarah Burton, who made Alexander McQueen's clothes more minimalistic.
Her work has less avant-garde and more practical marketing approach to the fashion industry. She rarely quotes the theme of death, about which McQueen liked to ponder, and leaves gilded skulls only on classic evening clutches.
Costume shows, animalistic themes, voluminous materials such as parachute silk and synthetic hair are the attributes of yet another Englishman, Gareth Pugh. At the dawn of its popularity, which began at London Fashion Week in 2006, the Gareth Pugh brand was not commercially successful, it even predicted bankruptcy. Nevertheless, thanks to the balance found by the designer between reality and the “avant-garde dream”, Gareth Pugh was able to make a name for himself and become in demand.
Among Japanese avant-garde designers, one should single out Issei Miyake with his multifunctional origami Origami Issey Miyake accessories, Yohji Yamamoto, who creates androgynous clothing for his own labels Y-3 and Yohji Yamomoto, as well as for Adidas. And, of course, it is impossible not to mention the most avant-garde brand of Rey Cavacubo today, Comme de Garcons (which means “like a boy” in French), the palette of which is dominated by black, white and gray.
What about the vanguard in Dubai? Among regional designers, Rad Hourani, Amato collections stand out, as well as unusual bags with 3D-elements Gabriella Ingram. There are even whole boutiques that buy purely avant-garde wearable art works. For those who want to play innovators or try on unusual accessories, we recommend The cARTel and IF Boutique stores. Try to start with a discreet monochrome gamut. Gradually add accessories, shoes with an interesting heel and be sure to pick up an unusual haircut, for example, with a short straight bang.
Whatever direction of the avant-garde you choose, whether it is restrained minimalism in the style of Gareth Pugh, “torn”, shapeless, “with seams to the outside” constructivism of Ray Kawakubo and Martin Marghela or grotesque, almost flashy conceptualism, like Hussein Chalayan , the main thing is not to overdo it and keep the line between "reality and dream". Otherwise, there is a risk of being among fashion freaks ...
